Model
Railroad Train Control Basics
Now you're old
enough to get involved in serious model railroading.
First, you get a decent quality set (not one of those $45 starter sets - your
engine alone costs $150).
You set it up and watch it go round and round in a
circle...and around, and around, and around, and around
.......
GREAT ! ! ! Now you have an expensive child's setup but
you want more so you build some bench work and set up
several loops (maybe with crossovers) but each train
still goes in a circle - one direction - round and around
still. To make it interesting, you need a direction
reversing loop in your layout. That is; you need the
capability to indiscreetly have your train loop around
and return traveling in the opposite direction like a
real operation.
One of the first big decisions I found in starting my
layout was cab control. Cab control simply means that one
or more power packs, of some kind, are used to control
one or more sections of track. All the engines on a
particular section of track are controlled together by
the power pack, or cab, that is currently connected to
that section. Often an elaborate
switching system is wired to sequentially route power to
sections of track such that an individual train remains
controlled by a single power pack as it traverses many
sections of track. Your typical starter set with a power
pack and a circle of track is cab control in its least
complicated form. Cab control has the advantage of simplicity
and low cost. No fancy electronics
are necessary to make it work and no
modifications to locomotives are
required. As a great bonus, troubleshooting is relatively
easy.
First Choice
CTC or DCC
I had to make up my mind to use either DCC control or a
CTC panel when I started my layout. DCC is fine but it
has many drawbacks. I wanted to have direction reversing
loops to allow me to run a train in either direction as I
switch along the route and DCC has never been wonderful
at direction (and polarity) changes. At its best, the
engine has some degree of 'lurching' as the circuit takes
time to realize a direction change has occurred. When it
'lurches', you will typically discover EVEY coupler that
is not perfectly aligned as they uncouple. Also, it's
pretty expensive when you have a large complement of
tractive power as I have. However, wiring a DCC layout is
extremely easy.
On the other hand, a CTC panel gives you far more
flexibility but is harder to install. Wiring of a CTC is
really not complicated at all but it does require that
you organize your thoughts and your wiring. The first
item you need to know is that a CTC layout requires you
divide the track on your layout into sections. Each
section has to be electrically isolated (disconnected)
from all other sections. I found an easy way to do this
is to simply lay my track normally then use a cut-off
disc on my dremel tool to cut a 'gap' into the rails
without cutting through the plastic ties on the flex
track. Be sure you stagger these cuts about 3 inches for
the left-right rails or the track can 'buckle' at the
cut. The electrical power for each section will come from
the switches on the CTC panel and each section of track
requires control switches on the CTC panel. This means 2
wires must connect power from each direction switch on
the CTC to each isolated section of track (it uses a LOT
of wire).
I used rotary switches to select my cab controls (power
packs) and can wire up to five cab controls stations.
Presently, I have three wired up but, for simplicity, I
use two for my examples here.
I used toggle switches to control my forward direction.
You can get really fancy with indicator lights for each
track sections showing which direction of travel is
selected and which cab is controlling power but this adds
another level of complicity. I have addressed it here but
you may wish to leave it out to simplify the job but keep
in the indicators make it MUCH easier to 'read' the CTC
and know what's going on with a quick glance, thereby
avoiding embarrassing running 'mistakes'.
I had a very limited space for my old CTC panel so I used
miniature switches but this introduced a real challenge.
These items can not handle much heat during soldering and
some end up failing quickly. Add the condensed size and
maintenance is not as simple as I would desire but it is
manageable. I suggest larger switches if you have the
room. I plan to be sure I have room for a lrager panel in
the new train room.
Now on to the details. Click here to go to the next page and to start
learning about CTC control.
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